5 pleasures, zero guilt

Flavor: Cheeses from the Valley

Around here, if the cheese has body, it’s also because the animals are strong. Every summer, Ivane and Franck Pissart leave their farm in Montroc, above Argentière, with their herd of about fifty head (and their two little ones) to make the climb to the Balme mountain pasture at an altitude of 2,000 meters. With views of the massif’s peaks, lush grass, and tiny alpine flowers—that’s what you’ll taste in their incredibly delicious aged tommes. It’s a similar summer routine for the 400 ewes belonging to Géraldine and Eddy Battendier of the GAEC des Croests Mastins in Les Houches, assisted on their transhumance by their dog Rocket. No set pastures here—just the sweet freedom to savor in the form of fresh or ash-coated goat cheese.

Farm-direct sales

• at the Montroc farm in Argentière: Tue, Fri, Sat (5:30–7:30 p.m.)
• at the Croests Mastins cheese shop in Les Houches, Mon–Sat (4:30–6:30 p.m.)

A real treat: the farçon

“Monday, potatoes. Tuesday, potatoes. Wednesday, potatoes too… And on Sunday, the Lord’s Day: steamed potatoes.” Wrong! A farçon. Or farcement. This traditional dish of mountain farmers would simmer for hours in its cast-iron lid, over the fireplace, while the family went to Mass. Potatoes (as you’ve probably guessed), bacon, eggs, cream, butter, and dried fruits—raisins, figs, prunes… Simple, hearty, comforting. Everyone has their own recipe, and everyone swears theirs is the real deal. Today, a few local restaurants (La Maison Carrier, Le Rond Point) and caterers in the valley still prepare it. A must-try. And if you have trouble digesting it, read (and drink) on…

Attitude: Altitude Gin

2017, in Les Houches. In the old still of a wooden mountain hut at the foot of Mont Blanc, three slightly eccentric Londoners were playing at being Alpine druids. Since then, Altitude Gin has soared to new heights and set up shop in Chamonix, where the distillery has grown considerably—you can even tour it and sample the gin there. The foundation of the recipe for this magic potion, however, remains the same: an infusion of local plants and berries (juniper, blueberries, elderflowers, pine needles) and pure mountain water. And what gives Altitude Gin even more character is its commitment to preserving the planet. The brand donates to CREA Mont-Blanc and offers a recyclable bag-in-box format to restock bars in the Valley without increasing its carbon footprint. It’s good—very good—and soon to be organic.

A Luxury: Mont-Blanc Saffron

Growing saffron flowers in the mountains is a bit like imagining mountaineering on the plains of the Middle East… And yet. Since 2013, Noé Tollin has been cultivating “red gold” in Les Houches, at an altitude of over 1,000 meters. From December to April, everything lies dormant under the snow. From May to September, silence—it’s growing. And in early fall, it all comes down to a single day to harvest the thousand stalks and pluck the three pistils from each flower with tweezers. It’s the work of a botanist and a goldsmith, a blend of passion and patience. With about 100 grams harvested each year, Noé Tollin adds a special touch to his jams and syrups. Made with fresh fruit and prepared in-house, of course.

Chalet 4810 – a gourmet gem

A treat that’s not only indulgent but also melt-in-your-mouth and crunchy. Maison Fattier’s 4810 is a little chocolate gem with a Piedmont hazelnut praline center. And as if that weren’t enough to make us melt, its base is delicately crisp. Every bite is a sensation—and it’s chic, too, with a shape reminiscent of Mont Blanc, the Aiguille du Midi, and the Bossons Glacier. A must-try during your stay, you can’t miss it in the display cases at Chalet 4810 and Les Petits Gourmands. Maison Fattier’s two pastry shops and tea rooms are the pinnacle of pleasure. The hardest part will be choosing—and leaving.

• Chalet 4810 - 191 Joseph-Vallot Street - Chamonix
• Les Petits Gourmands - 168 Rue Docteur Paccard - Chamonix